Monday, September 10, 2012

Celis Grand Cru


Celis Grand Cru is unique.  Not just the beer, which has a very interesting story (more on that later), but background research reveals several oddities.  From wildly divergent ratings to humorously awkward youtube reviews(Not only are they awkward, only the top two are reviews.  The rest are audiobooks!), you really don’t know what to expect when you pop the cap.  But hey, sometimes that’s the best way to taste a beer.

Celis Grand Cru

As you pour the beer, it doesn’t seem like it will form any head.  Then at the last moment bubbles rush to the top and present you with a half finger of white foam that dissipates quite rapidly.  Usually meager sudsiness is a big red flag for a beer, but this time it is worth waiting until you’ve stuck your nose in the glass.  Massive effervescence sends a surfeit of Belgian funkiness up your nostrils.  Clove, coriander, bretty yeast, it’s all there.  This is accompanied by a sharp prick of alcohol that continues to make itself known through the quaff.  This truly is the champagne of beers because you actually feel like you’re drinking champagne except for the smoother mouthfeel that comes with a grain based brew.  The sensation Grand Cru elicits on the tongue reminds me of a recent trip I made to a sushi bar where I had trouble getting myself to drink my water because that meant removing the taste of the rolled bits of heaven already occupying my mouth.  I do not wish to finish this beer for then it will be gone.

It is encouraging to know that a beer so European in its aroma and flavor can come from an American brewery.  But therein lies the last bit of uniqueness Grand Cru has to offer.  It doesn’t exist.  The man responsible for this wonderful brew is Pierre Celis.  Mr. Celis grew up in central Belgium and actually founded Hoegaarden before it had to be sold to Interbrew.  After emigrating from Europe, he founded a brewery in Austin Texas that eventually was bought by Michigan Brewing Company.  For the next ten years he worked for that brewery to ensure the quality of his recipes.  About a year after Mr. Celis’ death in April of 2011, Michigan Brewing went under and its assets were sold.  In June of 2012 the Celis family bought back the rights to the brand and now plan to breath new life into their forebear’s recipes in Austin.  Hopefully they will be successful because they already have step one down, a stellar product.

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